Focke-Wulf Fw-190 D-9
- 1/48 -
Tamiya.
HISTORY.
The Focke-Wulf FW190 D-9 was perhaps the best German fighter aircraft
produced during the war. Based heavily on the airframe and wings from
the radial engined A-series, and installing an in-line Jumo 213 engine,
the "Dora" featured an impressive performance that matched the
top line Allied fighters including the famous P-51 "Mustang".
The shortcomings of the FW190-A series at high altitude where the
majority of the Allied bomber attacks flew, spurned Chief Designer Kurt
Tank to evaluate a number of improvements to the A-series. Originally
wanting the impressive performance of the DB-603 engine, the realities
of war led to the choice of the much more available Jumo 213 engine
which was already in production in large quantities as a bomber engine.
Under development for two years from 1942 through 1944, the "Dora"
featured a lengthened nose and aft fuselage section along with an
increased chord tail fin. First deliveries of the main production
variant, the D-9, started in mid-1944.
Its performance was quite impressive, but the relative inexperience of
Luftwaffe pilots at this late stage of the war led to a high casualty
rate. Only about 700 were completed, but the majority never actually saw
combat service because of shortages of fuel and pilots.
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THE KIT.
The kit is Tamiya's 1:48 FW190D-9. The name Tamiya says it all
with regards to quality, there are no better kits out there
today (IMHO). This kit features approximately 60 injected molded
plastic parts that are the envy of the business in quality, and
decal options for three aircraft (generic JG301 & JG4
aircraft and an aircraft flown by Lt. Teo Nibel of JG54). The
instruction sheet is a ten-page foldout diagram assembly with
marked color painting guidelines for only Tamiya paints. While
the fit and engineering of this kit is legendary, there are a
number of minor inaccuracies present in the kit, from the layout
of the wheel wells (which were borrowed from the A-series kits)
to the layout of the wing, along with several other minor
problems. |
CONSTRUCTION.
I started with my usual warm, dish soap water wash of the
plastic components, followed with a cold water rinse. Pat dry
with a paper towel and let dry overnight. I then pre-painted all
the parts as indicated in the instructions. For the interior
color I used Polly Scale RLM66 Scale Black. |
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After detail painting
a light umber wash was applied, and details were highlighted
with a dry brushing of silver. Assembly of the cockpit/forward
fuselage presented no challenges and went together beautifully.
Next up were the wings, engine cowling (option provided for open
or closed cowl flaps), front fuselage deck, and fuselage, with
assembly presenting no problems. At this point I skipped over
the drop tanks, exhausts, and landing gear sub-assemblies, as
these would be added after painting. The cockpit was an easy
drop in assembly and lastly I installed the wings and horizontal
stabilizers in place.
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A little dry fitting and light sanding was
all that was needed on all the joins and Gunze Sangyo Mr.
Surfacer was used sparingly to help finish the seams.
I had heard a few
complaints about the cockpit glass and framing not
fitting well, but I experienced no problems and no
filler was required. I used jewelers watch cement, which
provides an excellent bond without crazing and dries
perfectly clear. After masking off the cockpit and
stuffing wet tissue into the wheel wells and radiator
opening, it was off to the paint shop.
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PAINTING AND
MARKINGS.
I chose the decal option for JG4, which was a typical late war
Luftwaffe scheme of RLM 75 & 82 over RLM 76 undersides. I
airbrushed Polly Scale acrylic RLM76 Light Gray, RLM75 Gray
Violet, and RLM82 Dark Green. All paints were airbrushed using
paper masks enlarged to the correct scale on my scanner and
attached with Tombo Mono Multi liquid glue. This glue is perfect
for temporary masking, as it is low tack when dry, but has
enough tack to allow paper masks to be attached around circular
objects (like the fuselage). After drying, the demarcation lines
and mottling were "softened up" with a free hand spray
of the appropriate color thinned 50:50 with distilled water and
sprayed at low pressure (15 PSI). The centers of the panels were
also over sprayed with a mix of the base color lightened 20%
with white to provide some fading.
| Next,After
letting the paint dry overnight, I airbrushed a light
coat of Future to prepare the surface for decaling. The
decals are typical Tamiya, a bit thick but nicely done.
The decals went on quite well and responded to Microsol
without any permanent wrinkling. After drying overnight,
I wiped the decals off with a moist cloth with Pollys
Plastic Prep to remove any residue and after drying I
shot a light coat of Future over the decals to seal them.
Next, a burnt umber oil wash was applied to the panel
lines and after clean up a light coat of Polly S Flat
Finish was shot to provide a surface for pastels. I then
used pastels, and pastel pencils to lightly highlight
the panel lines and detail on the wings/tail surfaces
and fuselage. I use Derwent pastels and pencils and they
are quite easy to use, just lightly draw on the surface
to be highlighted and blend with artists blending stump. |
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A very nice, subtle effect can be
achieved with these pencils that is much easier for me than dry
brushing or pre-shading. Next I applied a heavy burnt umber oil
wash to the wheels and sealed everything with a light coat of
Future.
FINAL CONSTRUCTION.
AfterAfter painting and weathering, I assembled the landing gear,
the drop tank, pitot, and propeller assembly.
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CONCLUSION.
Tamiya models are my absolute favorite to build, as they
usually have no major problems to contend with. This kit
was no exception, and not a single spot of filler was
needed. This kit makes a beginner modeler look like an
expert and is highly recommended.
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REFERENCES.
Warplanes of the Luftwaffe, David Donald, Barnes &
Noble Books |
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Text&pictures: Robert
E. Laskodi
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